Monday, 31 January 2011

Best Software

Best Media Player

This is a full-featured and powerful media player for all Windows platforms (based MPUI and MPlayer), named as "Best Media Player", this free media player can play most media files, include DVD, VCD, MPEG/VOB, AVI, WMV/ASF, Ogg Vorbis, Quicktime MOV, RealMedia (RM/RMVB) and other media files, program include all most video codecs and audio codes. This is the best choice for you play media video on Windows, you just need install this free program, then you can enjoy and view all most popular media format files. It is one very simple media player, don’t have any gingerbread settings, it is easy to get started and easy to use.

  

Download: http://adf.ly/QMZZ  (Click the yellow button SKIP AD)

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VLC media player

VLC is a free and open source cross-platform multimedia player and framework, that plays most multimedias files as well as DVD, Audio CD, VCD, and various streaming protocols.
It is simple to use, yet very powerful and extendable.


Download: http://adf.ly/QchC (Click the yellow button SKIP AD)

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KMPlayer 1434 Official

System Requirements
  • Windows 2000/XP/Vista (32bit)
  • Direct x9.0
  • 30M or larger hard disk space for installation
  • This is a freeware program
  • All the necessary codecs are built within the multimedia replay, KMP. Thereby, the video can be played without any additional codecs. KMP supports internal/external codecs. The internal codec is processed within KMP rendering a faster and a safer action.The current internal codec supports for all the codecs already found in ffdshow. Additionally, it can also partially hold up for MPEG1/2, which could not be normally supported by ffdshow.
  • The audio codecs AC3, DTS, MPEG1, 2, AAC, WMA 7, 8, OGG are supplied. In utilization of internal audio codec, the matrix function/normalizer is addionally provided. Furthermore, AC3/DTS S/PDIF passthrough fuction is automatically supplied in creating a high quality home theater experience. This means that a high quality home theater environment is provided with only KMP.For those who do not utilize the internal codec, even though the external codec is supplemented, there is no need to register the system alike to the general program.

    Download: http://adf.ly/QdQM (click the yellow button SKIP ADD)

    Sunday, 30 January 2011

    How to install an additional hard drive using Windows XP/2000 Disk Management.

    Installing a second hard drive in Windows XP is not as easy as it should be. If you're accustomed to plug-n-play devices, it just seems logical that XP would detect the drive and take the steps to install it. But it doesn't. You have to manually install the hard drive in XP.

    1. Install Secondary drive.

       2. Boot into Windows XP/2000.
       3. Open Computer Management and select Disk Management.
       4. Initialize the drive.
       5. Partition the drive.
       6. Format. the drive.
       7. Assign the drive letter.
       8. Initiate changes.

    Opening Disk Management in XP/2000
    1. Right click on My Computer.
    2. Choose Manage (This will open the Computer Management window).
    3. Choose Disk Management under the Storage category (Refer to Figure 1).
    Figure 1 (Click on the image to view a larger image)


    When the drive is first seen by Disk Management it will not be seen in Windows Explorer. For the drive to been seen in Windows Explorer the drive will need to be configured through Disk Management. XP/2000 will normally see the unpartitioned drive when you open Disk Management and start the wizard for you.

    Note the Unallocated Drive in Figure 2.
    At this point XP/2000 will normally launch a wizard to walk you through setting up the drive, but it may be necessary to set it up manually.

    Figure 2 (Click on the image to view a larger image)


     The Partition/Conversion Wizard Method
    1. Select the drive to partition (the new drive).
    2. Select the drive to Convert (not needed for new drives).
    3. A summary screen will tell what the wizard will do if you click on Finish. Confirm that the correct drive is selected.
    4. Once you click on Finish, the drive will be initialized and you will be taken to the Partition Wizard. See Figure 3 for details.
    Figure 3 (Click on the image to view a larger image)


    Manually Initialize
    If the XP/2000 Initialize and Convert Hard Disk Wizard did not automatically open when you opened Disk Management, you will need to perform the following steps to initialize the hard disk drive.

       1. Right-click the new drive to initialize it (Refer to Figure 4). This prepares the drive to be used with Windows.
       2. Once you choose initialize, another window will come up asking you to confirm which drive to initialize. Once a drive is initialized the data on the drive will be erased.

          Figure 4 (Click on the image to view a larger image)


    1. Choose the correct drive. Windows will usually only display uninitialized drives, but if you have a dual boot system, drives from other operating systems will show up in this list.
    2. Once you choose OK, the drive will be initialized for use with Windows XP/2000 (it still will not be seen by Windows Explorer).
     Figure 5 (Click on the image to view a larger image)


    New Partition Wizard
    Once a drive is initialized for use with XP/2000, you may format and partition the drive. This option is not available for drives that do not have free space or for drives that have not been initialized.
    1. Right-click on the unallocated space, and select New Partition (Refer to Figure 6).

      Figure 6 (Click on the image to view a larger image) 
    • Partition type: Primary – This is the normal selection for drives with less than 4 partitions.
      Extended – This is used if the drive is split in to 4 or more partitions.
      The default selection is Primary. Click on Next.
    • Specify partition size in Megabytes - Set the size of the partition (the full drive capacity is the default). If you are creating a single partition, leave the default amount. If you are creating multiple partitions, enter the size in megabytes for your first partition. Click on Next.
    • Assign the drive letter - This allows you to select the drive letter for this partition. The setup will default to the next available drive letter. You may also assign the drive to another letter that isn't in use if you like. Click on Next.
    • Format Partition - The New Partition Wizard will by default be set to format the drive with an NTFS file system, a default unit allocation size, and a volume label of "New Volume". For a faster format, check the Perform a quick format option. Keep in mind that if you choose this option, the format will skip several verification processes. It is recommended that you leave the Enable file and folder compression option unchecked. Click on Next.
    • Summary – Allows you one more chance before committing to the changes. If you do not wish to make any changes, click on Finish. (Refer to figures 7 and 8.)

    Figure 7 (Click on the image to view a larger image)


    Figure 8 (Click on the image to view a larger image)


    Finished
    Once you have clicked on the Finish button, the New Partition Wizard will close. In a few seconds, the "Unallocated" partition will say "Formatting". When the drive has completed formatting it will display as a healthy drive with the size and type of partition below the volume name and drive letter.

    Figure 9 (Click on the image to view a larger image)

    Saturday, 29 January 2011

    HTML Tutorials Guide


    HTML Basic Document

    <HTML>
    <head>
    <title>Document name goes here</title>
    </head>
    <body>
    Visible text goes here
    </body>
    </HTML>

    Heading Elements

    <h1>Largest Heading</h1>
    <h2> . . . </h2>
    <h3> . . . </h3>
    <h4> . . . </h4>
    <h5> . . . </h5>
    <h6>Smallest Heading</h6>

    Text Elements

    <p>This is a paragraph</p>
    <br> (line break)
    <hr> (horizontal rule)
    <pre>This text is preformatted</pre>


    Logical Styles

    <em>This text is emphasized</em>
    <strong>This text is strong</strong>
    <code>This is some computer code</code>

    Physical Styles

    <b>This text is bold</b>
    <i>This text is italic</i>

    Links, Anchors, and Image Elements

    <a href="http://www.example.com/">This is a Link</a>
    <a href="http://www.example.com/"><img src="URL" alt="Alternate Text"></a>
    <a href="mailto:webmaster@example.com">Send e-mail</a>
    A named anchor:
    <a name="tips">Useful Tips Section</a>
    <a href="#tips">Jump to the Useful Tips Section</a>

    Unordered list

    <ul>
    <li>First item</li>
    <li>Next item</li>
    </ul>

    Ordered list

    <ol>
    <li>First item</li>
    <li>Next item</li>
    </ol>

    Definition list

    <dl>
    <dt>First term</dt>
    <dd>Definition</dd>
    <dt>Next term</dt>
    <dd>Definition</dd>
    </dl>

    Tables

    <table border="1">
    <tr>
    <th>someheader</th>
    <th>someheader</th>
    </tr>
    <tr>
    <td>sometext</td>
    <td>sometext</td>
    </tr>
    </table>

    Frames

    <frameset cols="25%,75%">
    <frame src="page1.htm">
    <frame src="page2.htm">
    </frameset>


    Forms

    <form action="http://www.example.com/test.asp" method="post/get">
    <input type="text" name="lastname" value="Nixon" size="30" maxlength="50">
    <input type="password">
    <input type="checkbox" checked="checked">
    <input type="radio" checked="checked">
    <input type="submit">
    <input type="reset">
    <input type="hidden">

    <select>
    <option>Apples
    <option selected>Bananas
    <option>Cherries
    </select>
    <textarea name="Comment" rows="60" cols="20"></textarea>

    </form>

    Entities

    &lt; is the same as <
    &gt; is the same as >
    &#169; is the same as ©

    Other Elements

    <!-- This is a comment -->
    <blockquote>
    Text quoted from some source.
    </blockquote>
    <address>
    Address 1<br>
    Address 2<br>
    City<br>
    </address>


    HTML Color Names

    Color Values 

    Colors are defined using a hexadecimal notation for the combination of Red, Green, and Blue color values (RGB). The lowest value that can be given to one light source is 0 (hex #00). The highest value is 255 (hex #FF). 

    The tables below provides a list of color names.

     

     

    Friday, 28 January 2011

    Central Processing Unit (CPU)

    What is a CPU?



    The Central Processing Unit (CPU) is responsible for interpreting and executing most of the commands from the computer's hardware and software. It is often called the "brains" of the computer. 

    The CPU is Also Known As: processor, microprocessor, central processor, "the brains of the computer"

    The modern day CPU has hundreds of little round contacts around the bottom surface, as seen in the top image. These contact with pins on the motherboard, inside a socket specially designed for the CPU. Each motherboard has a specific socket type, and only CPU's of that socket type are compatible with that board.
    In the older CPU's, the contacts used to be on the motherboard and the pins were on the CPU. Fortunately this has now changed, as many people discovered the hard way that putting your CPU in the wrong way and bending the pins was a good way to throw away a couple of hundred dollars.
    In a fully assembled system, you wont be able to see the CPU when you open the case. It will be covered up by the heatsink and fan cooling system on top of it. Without this cooling system, a CPU can heat up to many hundred degrees in a matter of seconds. These sort of temperatures can easily destroy a processor chip, and in some cases, even cause them to explode.
    In this internal image of a computer system, you can see in the upper right region of the motherboard, just below the four RAM rails, there is a large, black, square-shaped object with a fan inside. This is part of the cooling system for the CPU. At the top is the fan and beneath that there is a heatsink. This is a light metallic structure with several thin fins that absorbs heat from the CPU beneath it and allows it to be dispersed by the air blown down through them by the fan on top. The CPU itself is fastened into the motherboard beneath this cooling system.
    CPUs come in various different designs, though from the outside, most appear very much the same. As mentioned before, each CPU is designed to fit into a specific type of motherboard socket, and so they are incompatible with any other socket-type board. CPUs also have various different operating designs, some with single cores and others with multiple cores. CPU's with more than one core are capable of carrying out more than one process at a time. In short, they can multitask.
    CPU's are also rated with various different speeds, which are measured in Gigahertz (Ghz). Basically the higher the Ghz rating on a processor, the faster it can put through data and information. However processors with multiple cores may have a slower Ghz rating than a single core processor and still be a faster chip, since they can put through more data at a time.

    Cpu installation guide

    Processors, can be different, so you don't want to swap out a Pentium 4 with a AMD Sempron . They are not compatible, unless you plan to build an entirely new system. If you are unsure your new CPU will fit in your current system, Go to http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/CPU-Z.shtml the program CPU-Z will tell you everything about your computer. Remember to verify that the socket on your motherboard will fit the new CPU.  
    After laying the motherboard out on a clean work surface, remove the plastic cover that shields the LGA775 socket's pins from harm. Be careful not to bend or otherwise disturb these pins—they need to line up just right with contact points on the base of the CPU.
    With the plastic guard removed, you'll easily be able to unclip the lever that holds the socket's CPU retention mechanism in place. Flip this retention bracket back on its hinges to expose the socket in full.

    Modern CPUs are keyed to ensure that they can only be inserted into a socket one way, just like a puzzle piece, so you should have no problem dropping your processor into the socket. LGA775 processors, for example, have little indents along opposing edges that line up with protrusions in the socket. If your CPU struggles to slide smoothly into the socket, chances are you've got it oriented the wrong way.
    Once the processor is sitting comfortably in the socket, flip the retention bracket back down and use the lever to clamp it into place. This secures the CPU to the motherboard.
    With the processor installed, we can move onto the application of thermal compound. Some folks like to apply thermal paste before dropping the processor into the motherboard, but I find that tends to be a little messier without making things any easier.
    Before slathering thermal compound all over our processor's exposed cap, it helps to make sure that cap is nice and clean. Gently brush the cap with a Q-Tip dipped in rubbing alcohol to rid it of any dust or oils that it may have picked up from your grubby carefully manicured fingers during the installation process.
    Next, we apply thermal compound. Most retail processors that come packaged with coolers will already have thermal compound applied to the base of the heatsink. If yours does, you can skip this step and proceed directly to heatsink installation. However, we recommend applying thermal compound yourself. Thermal compound works best as a very thin layer between the CPU and heatsink, and most heatsinks that come with paste pre-applied use a thicker layer than is optimal.
    You really only need a small dab of thermal compound to ensure complete coverage for the CPU. The dollop pictured above is more than enough, and it's best squeezed onto the center of the processor's metal cap.
    Next, spread the thermal compound over the processor, ensuring complete and even coverage. Some thermal compounds come with plastic spreaders, but you can also use a credit card or even a finger wrapped in a plastic bag. What you want to end up with here is a relatively smooth layer that's just thick enough to completely cover the processor.
    Don't worry about getting a little paste on the CPU retention bracket; it won't do any harm there. You will want to clean up any compound that makes its way onto the motherboard or its surface-mounted components, though. A Q-Tip dipped in rubbing alcohol should do the trick.
    Once the processor is glazed with compound, we can turn our attention to the heatsink. If you've elected to do your own thermal compound application, you'll want to make sure that the heatsink's base is scrubbed clean. Rubbing alcohol usually gets the job done, but some heatsinks are slathered with particularly gooey, clingy, or otherwise uncooperative thermal interface materials. It may be necessary to break out more noxious substances, such as nail polish remover, to restore the base of the heatsink to a bare metal shine.
    Be careful not to mar the base of the heatsink when removing any thermal compound that may cover it. Some heatsinks need to be scraped clean of thermal compound, and it's best to scrape with something plastic rather than a metal tool that will gouge the heatsink's surface.
     With our system's processor blanketed by a thin veil of thermal compound and our heatsink's base scrubbed clean, it's time to mate the two together. Before dropping the heatsink into place, ensure that all four of the heatsink's plastic retention posts are rotated clockwise into their installation position. Next, place the heatsink on top of the CPU, lining up the four retention posts with corresponding holes in the motherboard.
    When the posts are lined up, depress the black plastic tabs one by one to lock the heatsink into place. You should hear an audible click as each post locks into place.
    Since the area around a modern motherboard's CPU socket is often crowded with tall capacitors, heatsinks, and elaborate heatpipe arrays, I find it's best to depress the retention post that's least accessible first. The post directly opposite that one should be next, followed by the remaining two in whichever order you desire.
    After locking the heatsink into place, plug its fan into the appropriate header on the motherboard. The CPU fan header is usually right next to the socket, but if you can't find it, your motherboard manual should have a map highlighting its location.
    Note whether the heatsink you're using features a fan with a three- or four-pin header. That information will come in handy when we jump into the BIOS to configure fan speed control, since some motherboards can't auto-detect fan types.

    Thursday, 27 January 2011

    Mother Board

    Motherboard is the main circuit board of a microcomputer. 

    AT / ATX DIFFERENCES

    The following is some of the ways in determining if your motherboard is an AT motherboard or an ATX motherboard.

    The Keyboard:
    AT Motherboard = DIN/5 connector

    ATX Motherboard = PS/2 connector


    Motherboard power connector
    AT Motherboard = Single Row two connectors 5v & 12v
    ATX Motherboard = Double row single connector 5v, 12v, and 3.3v
    In this section, you learned that the motherboard holds all the components of the computer that serves as their main attachment point.

    What components are found on a typical motherboard
    CPU type: CPU socket or CPU slot
    Memory slots: SIMM slots, DIMM slots or RIMM slots
    Cache memory: Internal or External Cache found on the CPU and as support chips
    Chipsets: Northbridge, Southbridge, Cache, Heatsink, MCC, sound and video chipsets
    System BIOS: ROM usually a DIPP chip and complemented by the CMOS battery
    Expansion slots: AGP, ISA, PCI, AMR and CNR
    Motherboard connectors: FDC, IDE Controllers, Fan Controllers, CD/DVD and sound controllers
    Motherboard settings: Jumpers and Switches
    Power connectors: AT socket vs. ATX socket

    Types of motherboards


    (old school)
    AT (Full vs. Baby)
    XT (rip)
    LPX (rip)
    (newer)
    ATX
    NLX

    Full-AT (12" wide x 13.8" deep) Matches the original IBM AT motherboard design, which only fits into full size AT or tower cases only, not being produced much any more if any. This form factor is no longer produced because it cannot be placed into the popular Baby-AT chassis.

    Baby- AT (8.57" wide x 13.04" deep) Almost the same as the original IBM XT motherboard with modifications in the screw hole position to fit into AT style case, with connections built onto the motherboard to fit the holes in the case 

     A. Primary and Secondary IIDE Controllers
    B. ROM/BIOS
    C. ISA slots
    D. CMOS Battery
    E. PCI slots
    F. DIN/5 Keyboard Connector
    G. AT Socket
    H. ATX Socket
    I. DIMM Slots
    J. SIMM Slots
    K. Chipset
    L. L2 Cache
    M.CPU Socket
    N. Floppy Drive Controller
    O.LPT Connector
    P.COM Connector

    Full-ATX - (12" wide x 9.6" deep) / Mini-ATX - (11.2" wide x 8.2" deep) The official specifications were released by Intel in 1995 and was revised to version 2.01 in February 1997. The ATX form factor is an advancement over previous AT style motherboards. Therefore requires a new case design. ATX is not a abbreviation however is actually a trademark, which belongs to Intel.
    On a socket 7 ATX motherboard the socket has been placed a further distance from the expansion slots allowing for long boards to be placed in easier.
    Relocation of the memory and the CPU creating better ventilation and easier upgrade
    Power management possible with proper BIOS support.

    Micro ATX - A smaller version of Full ATX
    Flex ATX - Another version of the ATX motherboard

    NLX (Supports motherboards with overall dimensions of 9.0" x 13.6" [maximum] to 8.0" x 10.0" [minimum]) Implemented in 1998 by Intel this form factor is gaining popularity the last couple of years because there found on most clone computers
    Support for the Pentium II
    Support for AGP
    Support for USB.
    Support for DIMM.
    Easier Access to internal components
    Support for motherboards that can be removed without using tools

    ATX Motherboard Diagram


    A. Audio Ports
    B. USB Ports
    C. Firewire Ports
    D. RJ45/Ethernet Ports
    E. TV Tuner
    F. PS2 Mouse and Keyboard Ports
    G. P4 Socket
    H. Cooling Tube Pipes
    I. LGA CPU Socket
    J. Memory (DIMM Slots)
    K. Floppy Drive Controller
    L. ATX 24pin Socket
    M. Serial ATA Sockets
    N. Northbridge Chipset
    O. Southbridge Chipset
    P. IDE Controller
    Q. PCI-express X1
    R. AGP
    S. PCI
    T. PCI-express X16
    U. CMOS Battery
    V. BIOS
    W. Front Panel Connectors


    Another Motherboard













    Wednesday, 26 January 2011

    How to install RAM?

    Preparation

    This tutorial is on how to install RAM in a new computer, but if you want to upgrade your computer with new RAM or replace existing RAM then I suggest you look at this tutorial on how to upgrade your computer memory.

    So you have installed your motherboard and power supply? Great, lets move on and learn how to install the RAM. Installing RAM (computer memory) is very easy to do and probably the easiest task in building a computer.

    If you still need to choose your computer memory then I suggest you do so now. If you have already bought a motherboard, then it does narrow down your options for buying computer memory. For example a motherboard that has DDR slots will only take DDR RAM.

    Types of RAM

    There are four types of RAM that are currently in existant, although SDRAM is quickly on the backward slide.

        * SDRAM RAM
        * DDR RAM
        * DDR2 RAM
        * DDR3 RAM

    Locate the RAM slots

    So locate the memory slots on your motherboard they will look similar to the images below.

    Installing the RAM

    Next, take the memory out of their plastic sleaves. There will be one or two indentations on your RAM (depending on what type of RAM you have). These indentations need to face the notches on the RAM slots. Now take the RAM and push them into place, the little RAM clicks should snap into place. If you have any trouble the image below should help you.

    If you have multiple memory sticks then put them all in and your memory is installed.



    The picture above is the spot on the motherboard where you will be installing your RAM. Notice the notch circled in red. Use this as a guide to help you figure out the orientation of your RAM. RAM will only fit into the slot one way. If you try to force it, you may end up breaking the RAM. Each individual slot is called a DIMM. Also take notice of the white tabs on the ends of each of the DIMMs. Before you install the RAM, you must press down on the tabs to open them. Since there are several types of RAM and several types of motherboards, there would be no way for me to go over how each and every one will look. For the sake of simplicity, I will be showing you how to install PC3200 or DDR 400 RAM. Besides, it’s basically the same for every other type of RAM and motherboard.

     The above picture is that of two DDR 400 sticks of RAM. I have circled the notches in red to make it easier to identify. When you are installing the RAM, you want the notches on the RAM and the notches on the DIMM to match up. This ensures that you have properly seated the RAM in the correct orientation. As you press down on the RAM to snap it into place, the white tabs should snap into the outer notches of the RAM, as indicated in the picture below.



     Finished

    Checking your Installation

    You will only be able to tell if these are successfully installed when you start up your computer after adding the rest of the components.

    If the screen comes up and you don't here a series of beepings then your RAM is successfully installed. To check if all your RAM is recognized by your system, then you need to go to the bios setup, which will display the amount of RAM that is recognized, you can also check in Windows, Control Panel, System.

     

     Types of RAM

    Single Data Rate SDRAM

     SDR SDRAM is virtually obsolete now as far as the computer industry is concerned. It was one of the first memory architectures to support Synchronous Memory architectures and was only known as SDRAM at its time. Single Data Rate means that it can transfer one machine word (16 bits for the x86 architecture) of data during one clock cycle. It was widely used in the 90s era for computer systems up till the Intel Pentium III.

     

    Common SDR memory standards included PC-100 and PC-133 which ran on clock speeds of 100MHz and 133MHz respectively.

    DDR RAM


    Pretty much all modern PC memory is also DDR, Double Data Rate. With Single Data Rate RAM, data is only sent when the timing signal is high. The clock signal is high for some period of time, then low for another period of time of the same length. One cycle consists of one high period and one low period. Single Data Rate RAM can only transmit at one of these, DDR at both.
    DDR is then further subdivided into DDR, DDR2 and DDR3. Though the voltages are different (2.5v, 1.8v, 1.5v respectively), the big difference in practical terms is the socket shape: